Repotting your Bonsai Tree
Preparing the container:
1. Select the container you wish to repot your bonsai into. If this is a ceramic pot you should soak the pot in water for several
hours to keep the inside unglazed area from soaking the water from your soil into the dry clay. Then cover the drainage holes
in the bottom of the pot with small pieces of thick plastic screen or netting. The plastic screen will prevent soil from falling
through the drain holes without interfering with water drainage. It is generally a good idea to wire the plastic screen into the
pot because the screen can shift and leave the drainage holes uncovered. Next you should take one or two pieces of wire
(training wire works very well) through the wire holes (if your pot has them) or through the screen and drainage holes. Start
the wire inside the pot and run one end of the wire under the pot and back up inside the pot through the other available
wire/drainage hole. Make sure the two ends of the wire inside the pot are long enough to cover the root base and twist around
the roots tightly to secure the tree in the pot. If you would like to you may place a small amount of pebbles in the bottom of the
pot to also help in keeping the soil from falling through the screen, this is not necessary if you are using a larger diameter of
soil components. To stabilize the roots into the pot you will first need to spread a layer of very course sifted soil over the
bottom of the container. Over top of this layer, spread medium grain soil. Go to pruning your roots and follow those
instructions.
Pruning the roots of your tree:
Root pruning stimulates growth of the fine fibrous roots which are essential to keeping your bonsai healthy and happy in a
small pot and to keep the plant from becoming root bound. Before you trim any roots you must first remove at least one-third
of the old soil from the root ball. Use a root fork, root pick or a blunt stick and try not to damage the roots as you remove the
soil from around and between them.
Cut the long loose roots back by one-third. Be sure the keep the fibrous roots attached to the larger roots near the trunk
because these will sustain the plant while new roots grow. You should never remove more than one-third of the roots at one
time. I always suggest to research your particular tree/plant for the optimum time to root prune. Some trees such as pines have
organisms and bacteria which keeps your plant healthy and therefore you should never remove all of the soil from around the
roots.
Placing the tree:
While this is your own work of art, generally the tree should be placed slightly off center and slightly toward the back of the
container. First you need to determine the front of the tree. Make sure to place the plant in the container in the position you
desire to look at it (front of plant lined up with the front of the pot). Settle the tree in the container with a twisting motion to
eliminate air pockets in the soil under the roots. I normally will make a small mound of soil where I intend to place the tree and
work the roots into this mound of soil. Pull the anchor wires diagonally across the root ball and twist the ends of the wires
together until the tree is snug and firmly set. Then trim off the excess wire and push the ends of the wire back into the soil.
This technique will secure the plant in your desired position and helps to insure against its being knocked over or leaning in
the pot.
Filling the container with soil:
Scoop or pour in your medium grain potting soil in small increments or layers and work the soil around the root ball. Using a
blunt instrument such as chop sticks or something similar will help to insure removal of air pockets without damaging the
roots. Even a small air pocket around the root can result in an area of rot and this is dangerous and can even be fatal for a
newly potted tree. Make sure you work the soil under the root ball, just keep adding soil mix until you can no longer find any
empty space. Continue layering and working in the soil and as you increase the depth of the soil mix, use smaller size grains
until you are approximately 1/4 inch from the top of the container. You should then cover the top of your soil mix with a layer of
small pebbles, fine top soil or moss to keep your soil from washing out of the container when you water it. You can sprinkle
moss spores on your top soil, however it takes time for the moss spores to become green moss but fresh live moss will
immediately give the appearance of age to the tree in the pot. When placing on your top covering, work your preference
around the top roots of the tree leaving the roots exposed helping with the "aged" look. If you have multiple types of moss to
use you can virtually create a miniature landscape under your tree.
Soaking (watering) the soil:
You should soak the soil well by placing the entire container into a vessel which will allow the pot to be completely submerged
to the base of the trunk of the tree. The water should at least be high enough to reach just below the rim of the pot and then
you can lightly spray the top of the soil. When you place the pot into the water you will most likely notice air bubbles coming
through the soil, this is normal. Allow the pot to soak in the water until you no longer see air bubbles escaping. When you pick
the pot up out of the water, the pot should drain the excess water out very quickly through the drain holes. To remove any
more excess water you can slightly tilt the pot and allow it to set for a few minutes.
Watering after repotting:
Watering correctly after repotting is very important. If you removed only a few roots before repotting, water again on the
second or third day. If you have cut off many roots, do not water again for several days after the initial immersion. Heavily
pruned roots are not in condition to absorb as much water and are more susceptible to root rot.
After potting care:
For about 3 weeks after potting or repotting, protect your plant from hot sun, drying winds and hard rains. When you begin to
see new plant growth you can safely place the plant back into full sun.
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